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RME User Forum → ADI-2 & 2/4 Pro series, ADI-2 DAC series → Loud click sound when changing filter.
Firmware: 50
I did not get this high pitch click on early firmware.
I am very worried if I damaged my 15.000dollar speakers now!!!
I only got this high click sound switching from slow to sd sharp.
Have I damaged my speakers????
Edit: I only got the click sound once
Edt2: It felt like it only came from the Right speaker.
Firmware: 50
I did not get this high pitch click on early firmware.
I am very worried if I damaged my 15.000dollar speakers now!!!
I only got this high click sound switching from slow to sd sharp.
Have I damaged my speakers????
Edit: I only got the click sound once
Edt2: It felt like it only came from the Right speaker.
Sorry, but how is one supposed to judge that from a distance? What exactly happened and why do you think that something is damaged on the speakers?
What was the setup between ADI-2 DAC and your amp/speakers and the operating situation like anyway?
What are the other components here (Hifi amp, speaker)?
If you connect the ADI-2 DAC/Pro to an integrated amplifier, the final volume will be limited by the preamp, even if you have a very powerful power amp.
If the ADI-2 DAC / Pro is connected to an integrated amplifier as a preamp, then of course things are different, especially if the power amp is very powerful (loud).
BTW, that's why I prefer to always have something like a preamp with analog volume control in the signal path and not have something like a DAC directly connected to a power amp.
sophosutm01 wrote:Firmware: 50
I did not get this high pitch click on early firmware.
I am very worried if I damaged my 15.000dollar speakers now!!!
I only got this high click sound switching from slow to sd sharp.
Have I damaged my speakers????
Edit: I only got the click sound once
Edt2: It felt like it only came from the Right speaker.Sorry, but how is one supposed to judge that from a distance? What exactly happened and why do you think that something is damaged on the speakers?
What was the setup between ADI-2 DAC and your amp/speakers and the operating situation like anyway?
What are the other components here (Hifi amp, speaker)?If you connect the ADI-2 DAC/Pro to an integrated amplifier, the final volume will be limited by the preamp, even if you have a very powerful power amp.
If the ADI-2 DAC / Pro is connected to an integrated amplifier as a preamp, then of course things are different, especially if the power amp is very powerful (loud).
BTW, that's why I prefer to always have something like a preamp with analog volume control in the signal path and not have something like a DAC directly connected to a power amp.
The dac is connected to the active speakers(scm40a)
On early firmware I could change settings without noise. But with a single switch between frim slow to sd sharp I heard a really loud click nois
... I am very worried if I damaged my 15.000dollar speakers now!!!
...
Don‘t worry too much, most tweeters can stand a singularly, short click without problems, they are built to handle pulsive signals.
Tweeters are more endangered by thermal overload, but a short click doesn‘t heat them up.
Your description of a high level click leads to the assumption that you suffer from a level-mismatch between ADI-2 and your amplifier.
Probably you have to reduce the input level controls of your amp or use passive attenuators, not only to avoid events like this, but to improve your sound.
Read here:
https://forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.ph … 21#p161721
... and here:
https://forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.ph … 42#p120442
If you want to test your speakers, play a 3 to 4 kHz sine wave.
As a natural protection, stay within normal, bearable listening level for this test (the frequency is annoying, this limits your will to bring it’s level too far up).
High power sine waves can kill the tweeters.
If the sound is clean, no audible scratchy noise, everything is OK.
Everything was fine on 47 firmware. Never heard this click/pop.
The input sensitivity on the speakers amp is 1V.
What should I do to stay safe, buy a preamp?
Played 4k sine in youtube without issues.
sophosutm01 wrote:... I am very worried if I damaged my 15.000dollar speakers now!!!
...
Don‘t worry too much, most tweeters can stand a singularly, short click without problems, they are built to handle pulsive signals.
Tweeters are more endangered by thermal overload, but a short click doesn‘t heat them up.
Your description of a high level click leads to the assumption that you suffer from a level-mismatch between ADI-2 and your amplifier.
Probably you have to reduce the input level controls of your amp or use passive attenuators, not only to avoid events like this, but to improve your sound.
Read here:
https://forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.ph … 21#p161721... and here:
https://forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.ph … 42#p120442If you want to test your speakers, play a 3 to 4 kHz sine wave.
As a natural protection, stay within normal, bearable listening level for this test (the frequency is annoying, this limits your will to bring it’s level too far up).High power sine waves can kill the tweeters.
If the sound is clean, no audible scratchy noise, everything is OK.
Ok maybe its because the Auto Ref Level has too low voltage?
I should choose the +7dBu?
1 V (0 dBV, +2.2 dBu): Ref +7 dBu, Vol -5 dB
0.775 V (0 dBu, -2.2 dBV): Ref +1 dBu, Vol -1 dB
0.5 V (-3.8 dBu, -6 dBV): Ref +1 dBu, Vol -5 dB 0.315 V (-10 dBV, -7.8 dBu): Ref -5 dBu, Vol -3 dB
The only reason I choose the -5dBu Auto Ref was because the manual say there is some advantages with loudness
You did right choosing the lowest available Reference Level.
Even better, switch on “Auto Reference Level” + turn down your power amp’s input control (if exist), alternatively buy some passive attenuators.
This is the best protection against all kinds of adverse level events, and improves the S/N ratio.
Please read the linked postings for details.
Don’t buy a preamp for bringing the level down, the passive attenuators do this much better and cost next to nothing.
You did right choosing the lowest available Reference Level.
Even better, switch on “Auto Reference Level” + turn down your power amp’s input control (if exist), alternatively buy some passive attenuators.
This is the best protection against all kinds of adverse level events, and improves the S/N ratio.
Please read the linked postings for details.
Don’t buy a preamp for bringing the level down, the passive attenuators do this much better and cost next to nothing.
Thank you very much. I have not heard about the passive att you are talking about. Any recommendations?
My speakers has builtin A/B poweramps. I can only switch on/off.
Passive Attenuators, very useful, come in a variety of forms, e.g.:
Chose one that fits to you cabling and is available at your place.
It’s not rocket science.
https://www.amazon.de/Monacor-ILA-1020- … 4256263085
https://www.thomann.de/de/jts_ma_123.ht … h0QAvD_BwE
Do you have some more info on why the use of these?
I have never heard of them.
If you turn down the volume control of the ADI-2, SNR and dynamic range are lost.
This is compensated to a certain degree by the design with 4 reference levels and the feature auto reflevel, but only over a certain range.
With the attenuators the volume is controlled down on analog level. Then no need to turn down digital volume control too much.
Do you have some more info on why the use of these?
Your speaker’s amps need just 1 V / +2 dBu for full power.
ADI-2 DAC can put out a level of, RCA: 3 V / +13 dBu, or XLR: 6 V / +19 dBu.
This is an, RCA: 11 dB, XLR: 17 dB, mismatch that needs to be adapted if you want to take full advantage of ADI-2’s clever “Auto Reference Level” function that extends ADI-2’s usable dynamic range by 18 dB.
Then, have a look:
Now that you are on (manually set) -5 dBu Reference Level, what is the highest of ADI-2’s Volume figures you ever need for listening?
Probably in the range of -20 dB Vol.
This is another level margin that wastes dynamic range.
Passive Attenuators between ADI-2 and your speaker‘s amps match both factors, and protect your speakers from accidents caused by too high level.
Back to the main point: clicks when changing the filters are normal, totally harmless (no matter what you think of them subjectively), and won't damage anything. They are not caused by a firmware version, but the moment you change the filter while having music running. If you stop the music before changing the filter setting you will never hear a click.
Back to the main point: clicks when changing the filters are normal, totally harmless (no matter what you think of them subjectively), and won't damage anything. They are not caused by a firmware version, but the moment you change the filter while having music running. If you stop the music before changing the filter setting you will never hear a click.
No I use to change filter on earlier formware without that very high click/pop sound.
It does not click or pop now. It was just one time it happened.
Now I find that when turning off the dac left channel makes a very small turnoff pop. Not on the right but only left.
Hmmm…
Passive Attenuators, very useful, come in a variety of forms, e.g.:
Chose one that fits to you cabling and is available at your place.
It’s not rocket science.https://www.amazon.de/Monacor-ILA-1020- … 4256263085
Not that I know anything about the ones you listed but have you seen these?:
http://www.rothwellaudioproducts.co.uk/ … ators.htmlI am willing to spend a good amount on these things.
https://www.thomann.de/de/jts_ma_123.ht … h0QAvD_BwE
Passive Attenuators, very useful, come in a variety of forms, e.g.:
Chose one that fits to you cabling and is available at your place.
It’s not rocket science.https://www.amazon.de/Monacor-ILA-1020- … 4256263085
Not that I know anything about the ones you listed but have you seen these?:
http://www.rothwellaudioproducts.co.uk/ … ators.htmlI am willing to spend a good amount on these things.
The Rothwell Audio’s have 10 dB of damping only, which is not enough for your case.
Non-switchable is unpractical too.
What bothers me most is the mumbo-jumbo talk:
“...Please be aware that Rothwell In-Line Attenuators are NOT simply a resistor and that attenuating the signal effectively and transparently is not as trivial as some people believe.”
In fact attenuators are 2 resistors each (3 for balanced), same types you find all over inside the devices the attenuator is connected to.
Means: the audio runs through dozens of them inside the devices connected.
It’s really neither magic nor rocket science involved for transparent (means unchanged) sound.
The opposite is true, more than simple resistors would make the sound intransparent.
BTW: resistors cost a few pennies each.
Here are possible UK sources:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303352893463
https://monacor-webshop.com/ila-1020.html
sophosutm01 wrote:Passive Attenuators, very useful, come in a variety of forms, e.g.:
Chose one that fits to you cabling and is available at your place.
It’s not rocket science.https://www.amazon.de/Monacor-ILA-1020- … 4256263085
Not that I know anything about the ones you listed but have you seen these?:
http://www.rothwellaudioproducts.co.uk/ … ators.htmlI am willing to spend a good amount on these things.
The Rothwell Audio’s have 10 dB of damping only, which is not enough for your case.
Non-switchable is unpractical too.What bothers me most is the mumbo-jumbo talk:
“...Please be aware that Rothwell In-Line Attenuators are NOT simply a resistor and that attenuating the signal effectively and transparently is not as trivial as some people believe.”In fact attenuators are 2 resistors each (3 for balanced), same types you find all over inside the devices the attenuator is connected to.
Means: the audio runs through dozens of them inside the devices connected.
It’s really neither magic nor rocket science involved for transparent (means unchanged) sound.The opposite is true, more than simple resistors would make the sound intransparent.
BTW: resistors cost a few pennies each.Here are possible UK sources:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303352893463
https://monacor-webshop.com/ila-1020.html
I use XLR from adi2 to speakers so?
https://www.jts-europe.com/products/mic … es/ma-123/
See post #9 in this thread, the JTS MA-123 have been mentioned (and linked) already by KaiS.
See also https://forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.ph … 26#p182926
"[...]
Examples for switchable attenuators:
https://www.thomann.de/gb/jts_ma_123.htm (-10, -20, -30 dB) €22
https://www.thomann.de/de/shure_a15as.htm (-15/-20/-25 dB) €67
The JTS gives you a wider range, the Shure focuses on a more narrow attenuation range.
See also comment from Matthias Carstens, there is no better quality with the more expensive Shure, you can simply pick what appears to be more useful in your case regarding the attenuation range or simply choose whats less expensive to experiment with it, see: https://forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.ph … 66#p182766.
[...]"
[
I use XLR from adi2 to speakers so?
https://www.jts-europe.com/products/mic … es/ma-123/
This fact completely rules out the Rothwell’s.
Steps of 10 dB, reaching down to -30 dB are perfect.
Price is nice, go for it.
They stick out quite far.
Add very short XLR extensions if this could be a problem, specially if the speaker’s XLR’s are made of plastic.
Or make 100% sure there’s no strong side-pull on the construction.
Hi all,
As a new user here and a new ADI-2 user I con confirm this is happening.
This seems to be a software issue that should be fixed by RME and not by adding attenuators in the audio chain.
Kind regards
Bert
...This seems to be a software issue that should be fixed by RME and not by adding attenuators in the audio chain.
Welcome, Bert!
The attenuators are a general hint for configurations where a connected power amp / active speaker doesn’t have an input level control.
The attenuators can improve S/N ratio by optimized level-matching.
The reduction, but not removal, of the very occasional click’s level is a positive side-effect, like is the reduction of the chance for other level related mishaps, e.g. overpowering speakers.
For most configurations the attenuators are not necessary, ADI-2 already has a comparable functionality built in - manual switchable reference levels, and Auto Reference Level.
RME User Forum → ADI-2 & 2/4 Pro series, ADI-2 DAC series → Loud click sound when changing filter.
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