Due to ADI-2 Pro’s special double-TRS configuration for balanced ‘phones, there’s no readily available cable.

Go to a Pro-Audio / musicians store and let them do the soldering.
Show them manual page 44 for the pinout.

You can start with a standard-AUDEZE TRS-to-MiniXLR cable of your choice, let them replace the single TRS with two TRS.

Balanced vs Single-Ended with AUDEZE:
I don’t here any difference with my AUDEZE LCD-4 or LCD-2r2.

Power-wise I can stay on Single-Ended LowPower, and still need only ca. -20 dB Volume.

The (full size) 4pin XLR in manual page 44 is not the AUDEZE pinout of course, can be ignored.

The relevant part for your case is the double-TRS, on the ADI-2 Pro’s side.

The pin-out for the LCD mini-XLR connectors (those that go into the headphones themselves) on the LCD series cables, to double-TRS balanced is as follows:

miniXLR 1 and 4: (+) —> TRS Tip
miniXLR 2 and 3: (-) —> TRS Ring
TRS Sleeve = not connected

Left and right are the same.

Three thumbs up!

Get an adjustable temperature controlled soldering station for more fun.
Better a good used Weller than a cheap new Chinese.

This is one of the classic, analog controlled ones that will serve you a lifetime:

And I use one for 7 € from AliExpress, comes with 5 tips, direct 230 V connection, quick heating, temperature setting in the handle with mini LCD. Works well...

I bought one of these just before Xmas for rewiring the studio and building a tube guitar amp from scratch. It works great and is far better than the cheapy Chinese thing it replaced.

Hello again,

I'm facing a little problem. I don't know what kind of solder I should choose and I've already asked in different DIY forums and everyone has a different opinion. Some say it should be silver or suggest flux. lead free... and so on.
Also I was told that some metals oxidize in combination.

The connectors I ordered have gold plated bronze contacts.

While I'm at it I also wanted to solder digital AES cables. Again, I was told on the forum that the solder should not affect the impedance of the cable.

The whole thing confuses me a bit.

Choose one with Sn60 Pb Cu2 = 60% Tin, 38% Lead, 2% Copper, ca 185°C.

If, for environmental reasons, you want use lead-free go for so called silver solder (which in fact doesn’t contain much silver) like:
96.5%Sn 0%Pb 0.5%Cu 3%Ag, 217°C

A bit of copper (Cu) is important for a good flow.

Diameter 0.5 - 1.0 mm, Rosin core as flux.

Most lead-free solder runs ca. 40°C hotter than leaded, which makes it harder to work with, as you have to be faster not to melt isolations.

Leaded solder joints are easier to visible inspect, as they have a smoother, more shiny surface if done right.

Avoid Bi (Bismutum) solder, it’s available with temperatures down to 110°C, but needs special flux treatment to work.

You need 4 hands for proper soldering, so a “Helping Hands” tool or some clamps are mandatory.
The “Helpers” hold connector and wire, while you hold the soldering iron and feed the solder.

The solder does not affect the impedance in any way.
And Gold doesn’t oxidize, nor does soldering with the right flux (Rosin) cause any oxidation.

The whole thing isn’t rocket science.
Train with some pieces of wire, you soon find out.