I second what waedi said, and would like to add:

CE is not a certification of electrical safety. It's not even a certification at all, it's just a declaration of conformity marking. Or, worse, a Chinese-invented mark that is designed to look like the European one:  https://www.hqts.com/differences-betwee … na-export/

For European mains cable I'd look for VDE or TÜV certification markings.

You select circuit breaker rating based on your installation wiring (that the CB has to protect from overcurrent) current ratings, not the other way around. So if you have a power circuit with 2.5 mm² cabling and 16 A outlets, then you put 16 A circuit breaker. But if there is an outlet on the same circuit that is rated for 10 A, you must use 10 A CB, despite the cable supports higher currents. For lighting it's common to use 1.5 mm² cabling and 10 A breakers.

The circuit breakers protect your wiring and your outlets, not your appliances and their power cords. Appliances are expected to be protected by their own fuses and breakers designed for their operating currents, be it in the UK, the US, the EU, or any other civilized part of the world.

This has little to do with appliance power cords, where you select the current capacity based on your appliance's power rating. So waedi is correct here, either of these cables has more than enough current capacity. Although I still don't see the necessity to replace the supplied power cable of the DPS-2.

And in UK the plug contains not an "extra" fuse: it's mandatory due to the "ring main circuit" design that allows for 32 A CB in the distribution box, but the outlets are rated for 13 A, so they act also as outlet protection devices.

Agreed, but I need a slightly longer cable and an angled plug.

This Supra cable is not a stock cable, but I would not call it expensive.
Not sure if this is just marketing, but on the Supra website, they claim their cable is "properly shielded" and you can measure the difference yourself (and they show you how).
As I said, I'm not an expert, so -assuming this is true- I don't know whether this is relevant or not for the equipment.

That's true. But let me recap:
1) I'm not an expert, but the retailer didn't try to sell me a magic 10k eur/mt platinum-coated cable.
2) he just said it's a "shielded cable" and the price is more or less ok
3) I'm willing to buy it, as the plug/length are precisely what I need, but it should NOT BE WORSE than a stock cable.

From all the discussion above, I mostly got the idea that the cable is sort of irrelevant, so any cable should be equally ok.

Did I summarise it properly?

yes, I know it's not a requirement and I was not looking to produce better results: I was worried that there could be _something else_ I completely missed (e.g. the cable is shielded, but it's made of butter instead of copper...).

thanks to everyone for the information, it was indeed useful.

+1 forgot about that, valid point.

Exactly!

Use whatever is lying around.

100 bucks for a mains cord is too much, and shielding doesn’t do anything unless the whole room is shielded, even then …

Some comments: it is the manufacturer (Supra) in this case that babbles about CE approval, so the dealer just reproduces that info. And no price has been mentioned - I expect them to cost more than 100 €.

Now HiFi power cables are a nice thing as long as they are not totally overpriced. They are impressive (...convincing...) when holding them in your own hands, very reliable (when done correctly), and can have superior connectors with nicely gold plated contacts that really make better contact. Then they even add shielding (shield connected to PE) to not radiate into sensitive, nearby cables (which would not be the fault of whatever power cable, but a fault of an ignorant user). With these HiFi power cables -

Peace of mind guaranteed!

Wasted money guaranteed! What a pity.

If you still want to check it out - try these Amazon offers of cables with 17 (!) mm diameter with all the properties I mentioned, for about 50 bucks, sometimes even below that. That's a limit I can personally accept (as these cables are indeed good quality).

https://www.amazon.de/Audiophile-Stromk … 08LDK1TTC/

https://www.amazon.de/Viborg-Schukostec … 06Y6516T2/

They DO NOT sound different, though. They feel different

Nice pick ;-)

However, you should also bear in mind that such cables often have the characteristic of being quite stiff and do not ‘lay’ particularly well. Such sheathing is particularly annoying with ADAT cables, but could perhaps also happen with power cables.

The two cables linked are flexible, otherwise I wouldn't have linked them.