I was prompted to write this message because a ridiculously simple solution couldn’t be found for a long time, neither theoretically nor practically — I read a lot online, checked all the components that could be checked, and replaced the ones that couldn’t be tested.
It all started when two remote controls failed almost simultaneously — one from the ADI-2 DAC FS, and the other a learnable iHandy IH-830J+L. The LEDs — both IR and signal — were clearly working, but the target devices did not respond; the learnable remote “forgot” everything it had learned and refused to learn again, while the built-in presets continued to work. As I mentioned, everything that could be tested was in working order, all replacements were ineffective, and the battery had been checked first. I bought new iHandy IH-830J+L units, contacted the sellers, and asked them to test the “learning function” (fortunately, it’s not difficult or time-consuming) — the same thing happened both with me and with them. The seller of a new remote got frustrated and didn’t believe my video, but after receiving the returned unit, he verified it personally and refunded the money. Out of despair, all of this was put on the back burner, but when I later retrieved it, everything worked — all functions were operational.
But not for long. Literally after a couple of uses (with the learnable remote during the learning process), they stopped functioning properly again.
That’s when vague suspicions crept in… And indeed, the issue turned out to be the battery (a CR2032 coin cell). Apparently, the standard 3 V is not enough for these remotes: the first one starts acting up around 3.1 V, and the second at 3.15 V. Installing a fresh battery at 3.25–3.3 V brings them back to life. The temporary revival after a long idle period is probably due to the tiny self-recovery of the battery, allowing it to slightly exceed the critical threshold. I don’t know if this was the case when the remotes were new, or if some degradation occurred over time. But considering that this undocumented characteristic appears in remotes from different manufacturers, and that there are many mentions of similar behavior specifically with the ADI-2 DAC FS remote (“stopped working, left idle — worked again, then stopped again”), I suspect that this could happen with other remotes as well.
By the way, here’s what is written about this battery: “Standard coin cells such as Duracell CR2032, Varta CR2032, and other CR2032 types have a nominal voltage of ~3 V (in reality, a new cell may briefly show around 3.2–3.3 V without load, but this is not an ‘official’ 3.3 V). Due to the chemistry of these cells (lithium/manganese dioxide), the nominal 3 V is a technical specification, and under continuous load, the battery quickly drops below 3 V.”
Perhaps my experience can save someone time and nerves.
Transmit power and key feel is excellent, and ADI responds now in lightning manner.
