beat8000 wrote:I had a problem with a special Hifi surge protector. It killed the relais of my Krell power amp twice because it needed several on-off trials in a short time to switch on the device.
This probably was an inrush current limiter, a completely different thing, technically.
If something behaves strange, better not use it.
An overvoltage protection is quasi “invisible” to the devices connected, doesn’t change their behavior and doesn’t cause such effects.
eleweit wrote:KaiS wrote:If you switch your whole setup at once, a surge and overvoltage protection of any kind is mandatory.
Else the counter- or back-EMF of the connected devices CAN cause higher failure rates in your system.
Can you explain this more in detail, and is this an actual issue in a 'normal' modernish audio system with decent devices (where you'd think that the devices themselves already have overvoltage protection, and if they'd be prone to producing back-EMF they'd guard against that as well)?
Also curious: the powerstrip just mentions a 10A fuse. Is that the overvoltage protection or is there more to it?
An overvoltage protection is advisable for ALL types of electronics that cost more than a few bucks.
Overvoltages come from everywhere, even outside your house:
Your neighbors washing machine, a lightning strike, your power plant ...
On top of this, your case is special and strongly asks for a protection, as a lot of devices are switched at the same time, producing high voltage spikes for sure.
Please refer to the mentioned connection order for the protection to be effective.
If the protection saved a single repair it already paid off.
And no, a fuse isn’t an overvoltage protection, it only breaks when it’s too late, just to prevent a fire (if properly dimensioned).
The 10 A fuse secures the protector from overloading current.
Overvoltage protection uses varistors and sometimes spark gaps.