There is no such product like ADI-2 FS DAC, do you mean ADI-2 FS or ADI-2 DAC FS?

What's the reason to combine NAD C3050 and NAD M23?
Do you use the C3050 only as a preamp and the M23 as a more powerful power amp?

You could also think about using only a combination of ADI-2 DAC FS (as preamp) and M23 (as power amp).
If you need to connect a turntable, you could also think about the combination of ADI-2/4 Pro SE and M23.

If you require more digital inputs (for any of ADI-2 DAC/Pro FS or ADI-2/4 Pro SE), you could use a TOSLINK switcher to switch between 4 TOSLINK inputs with a remote. The newer version from Oehlbach (Optosel 4:1 Mk III) supports up to 192 kHz and has a better design than other less expensive products.

Thanks - I also found an older article from you:

CASE 1, analog volume control:
To maximize ADI-2's dynamic range (S/N ratio) it's best to have ADI-2’s volume control at 0 dB, using the external ANALOG AMP’s volume control to set listening level:
• Set external amp's volume control to middle position or some above.
• Switch OFF ADI-2's "Auto Reference Level".
• Set ADI-2's volume control to 0 dB.
• Select the reference level that fits best to your loudness demands.
• Use the ext. amp's volume dial to control the final loudness.
• Once you start to use any of ADI-2's DSP functions like e.g. the EQ:
- Compensate possible level boosts with ADI-2's volume control until the Level Meter does not show overs.
- Or switch back On “Auto Reference Level" and let ADI-2 calculate the best value.

A couple of questions, first of all I kept "Auto Ref Level" and I also like case 1 because easier to control and my daughter keeps playing with the volume knob on the pre-amp so keeping it on a fixed level is hard

1. Would you advise on case 2 over case 1 or the configuration I shared? I solely use the Line Out (no headphones)
2. I am using an NAD C3050 as the pre-amp and another NAD C23 as the power amp, do you advise to keep DIRAC live on the NAD "ON" or use RME ADI2 DAC FS to optimise the sound? in that case DIRAC Live "Off"
3. What is the relationship between EQ (Bass / Treble) and EQ? Do I need to switch "On" Bass/Treble in order to use it in EQ? (I might got this wrong)

I think these would be my basic questions I need to sort out before starting to delve deeper into the EQ settings.

Lastly, I downloaded the app already is super helpful.

Appreciate the support.

Thanks a lot and very interesting especially connecting the RME directly via balanced cable to the M23. The only thing I would lose is DIRAC but not sure how important this is. Then I would use the C3050 for Apple TV and turntables.

In summary this is what I would use:
LINE OUT
Fixed Output Level
Auto Ref Level: on
Ref Level: +13dBu
Lock volume: on
Volume: -5dB
Parametric EQ: on
Bass/Treble: Load with EQ
Loudness: off

One last question on the volume, I read in another article that +13dBu and -5dB is giving you +2 Volt output.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/foru … 0-s.15478/

How important is that?

Thats a good starting point before I go deeper into EQ.

Thanks really helpful

Hey, thanks so much. I actually followed your advise exactly outlined in case 2 and created a direct connection between ADI2 and M27 poweramp via balanced output.

Three more questions:
1. Do I need 2 passive attenuators one for Left and one for Right?
2. In case I would bring back the pre-amp then no attenuators needed, correct? (just asking since I have to order them from Germany)
2. My external subwoofer Revel Performa3 B112 I connect via RCA out on the ADI2? My understanding is that subwoofers are mono but in some of the forums I read both RCA (Left and Right) need to be connected to the sub. So do I need both or just one RCA cable?

thanks a lot.

I have to say I learned a lot in the last 24 hours - thanks a lot. For now no more immediate questions.

Tidal (-MASTER) on iPad/iPhone goes from 44.1 up to 192 kHz here, depending on the music track.

I’m not aware of any certain “standard” for DSD to PCM-streaming conversion.
Is it said to be an Apple-Music thing?

Sorry for a little bit off topic. But I wanted to ask this for a long time.

Attenuators, quality, installation:

Is there a difference in quality between the JTS-123 (25 bugs) and Sure A15AS (75 bugs)?

Regarding resistance, these attenuators should be placed at the end of the cable, direct connected to the target device, for example monitor speakers or power amp. These attenuators are very long and need a lot of space behind the monitors or power amps and there is a risk of mechanical damage (long lever).

Is there a good, recommended way to install these attenuators behind these devices without needing so much space and minimizing the risk? Maybe a short XLR-Cable (1 meter, 3 ft) between attenuator and target device?
But I would be concerned about the additional connectors degrading signal quality.

Thanks.

Was discussed months/years ago with the reply of MC that this is neutral to sound.
Finally, no need to spend the extra money on the Shure, of course, feel free to get the Shure if you want to stick to this brand.

I meant no offense. It sounded to my ears as if you were recommending Shure as a brand, as if one would or could take any risk with the purchase of the JTS. I just wanted to set the record straight, that's all.

Incidentally, I share your observation that the attenuators also have different adjustment ranges:
-15/-20/-25 vs -10/-20/-30
-30 might be an advantage in cases where needed.

All good guys, valuable input. Just to get the attention back to the original question:

UPDATE: I figured Apple Music - you have to switch off Dolby Atmos in the settings and immediately I get 192k. Tidal remains on 88.2 even on FLAC and MQA. Any idea why is this the case?

No issues hahahaha

Yes latest version, any specific track that I should try out?

It works ! 192khz - puzzled but it did work. Thx

The primary thing would be to check the transition and teaming of mains and sub, in context with the room.

First you should max out the optimization of the speaker/sub-internal settings - and maybe speaker/sub placement in the room.
Then EQ adds option for tweaks that the speakers don‘t offer.

You absolutely need a measurement system, else it‘s all fishing in muddy waters.

For iDevice all you need is the $12 app FFT, from StudioSix / Andrew Smith:
https://apps.apple.com/de/app/fft/id298840058

It changes the iPhone / iPad into a self contained, complete audio analysis system, nothing else needed.

You can run it on both iPad (as stationary source for the pink noise) and iPhone (for the portable measurement mic and analysis) at the same time, and have a result in a minute without any complicated setup.

You don’t need to be an expert for this - once you see what’s going on, corrections of all kinds are much easier to achieve.

Here’s a comprehensive “how to” for the process:
https://forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.ph … 12#p155312

Here’s an explanation why I suppose this approach:
https://forum.rme-audio.de/viewtopic.ph … 14#p173214

Is there a way to convert a DIRAC LIVE measurement I did a few weeks back before I received the ADI2?

I do have the Dirac curve:
https://ibb.co/SdN0zv7

Subwoofer:
https://ibb.co/8M8z9dC

How do I translate the curve now into ADI-2 measure?

I bought the FFT Tool but I think this is one level above what I am able to handle. I read your description in the other forum post but honestly I am too stupid to replicate this - I basically gave up. Still happy that I made it this far.

Should I just use the standard settings (factory settings) or is there any advise on some basic changes I should do on PEQ especially on the PEQ Band Type (peak, shelf, high cut, high pass) per band type?

That is true nothing can break

On your last point, just to confirm you mean by combining Dirac and Adi I use my nad m17 as a preamp? So no direct connection into poweramp to leverage the power of Dirac ? Just double checking here.

Ok let me play around with FFT again.

If the picture represents your normal listing level, -25 dB attenuation.
Then your ADI-2 volume setting gets into the optimum range beween -25 and 0 dBr.

All set correctly, just dial the Volume to your listing level (if I got the question right).

The important point is, “Auto Ref Level” should be on, which is the case, as volume is shown in dBr instead of plain dB without r.

You likely have attenuated the mains now, but not the subs.
So, the subs are much stronger now, relatively to the mains.

You would need to attenuate the subs the same amount the Shure attenuators do for the mains.

Which configuration / cabling did you finally settle on?

ADI-2 XLR out -> Shure Attenuators > (Mains, Sub)?
ADI-2 Rear TRS out -> ???
NADs ???

My preferred version would be:
ADI-2 XLR out-> XLR cables -> [optional: XLR to RCA adapter -> NAD for Dirac -> XLR cable] -> Shure attenuators -> Sub XLR in > Sub XLR out -> XLR cables -> Main Speakers.

As the NAD is still in play, the configuration has to be reconsidered.
Meanwhile use the sub’s gain, as mentioned.

XLR brands: Klotz, Sommer cable, good professional stuff, non-audiophile which is just rip-off.

Sorry, I think I mixed something.

You have the NAD M27 poweramp in service now, not the C3050/M23 pre-/power-amp combo mentioned in your 1st posting.

So cabling is all fine as it is, leave it.
Just bring down the sub’s input gain to match with the mains again after inserting the Shure Attenuators - that’s all!

Yes, this is the other option:

ADI-2 DAC XLR out -> NAD B112 XLR in -> NAD B112 XLR (HPF) out ->
Shure Passive Attenuators -> NAD M27 XLR IN -> Front Speakers

The default value for the B112 mains’ out High Pass Filter is 80 Hz.
IMO this is way too high, as your mains are quite bass-capable.

B112 software allows for tuning this, 30 Hz would allow the mains to contribute significant bass to the result, improving room-couping and bass transients.

Thinking about it:
The signal path would be cleaner not running the mains through the sub.
Probably a lot is going on in there (AD-DA?) to provide a tunable High Pass Filter.